Every November, Gresham Blake goes dark. Not the lights. The cloth.
This winter we're backing two pieces that have earned their place in a good wardrobe over a couple of centuries. One came out of the Highlands as a uniform. The other came out of the Victorian smoking room as a statement. Both look better at a party than almost anything else you could put on.
Meet the Black Watch tartan suit and the velvet jacket.
A tartan with a back story
Black Watch is the tartan that went to work. In 1725, six independent companies of Highlanders were raised to keep the peace in the Highlands after the 1715 Jacobite rising. In Gaelic they were called Am Freiceadan Dubh, the dark watch.
Historians still argue about the name. The likeliest answer is the cloth itself: deep navy and green crossed with black, sombre beside the red coats of the regular army. In 1739 the companies became a regiment, later numbered the 42nd, and in 1861 it formally took the nickname everyone already used: The Black Watch.
Why it works on a suit: it's a tartan that doesn't shout. From across a room it reads as dark and rich. Up close, the check reveals itself. Tailoring with a secret, which is exactly how we like it.
How to wear a Black Watch suit
- Christmas Day: crisp white shirt, black knitted tie, black Oxfords. Let the cloth do the talking.
- The party: lose the shirt and tie for a black roll neck. Very hard to beat.
- Burns Night, 25 January: practically home turf. Add a velvet bow tie and accept the compliments.
- Broken up: the jacket over dark denim, the trousers with a navy knit. Two outfits for the price of one decision.
Inside, choose from over 50 linings. The loudest part of the suit can be the bit only you know about.
The velvet jacket
Velvet came into evening dress by way of the Victorian smoking jacket, worn after dinner so the cigar smoke clung to the jacket and not to everything else. The smoking room has gone. The jacket stayed, because nothing else catches candlelight quite like it.
We cut ours in four colours:
- Black: the purist's choice, and it doubles as a dinner jacket.
- Bottle green: our favourite. Rich, festive, slightly mischievous.
- Navy: the quiet one, at its best with a black bow tie.
- Red: for people who want to be found at the party.
Wear it with black tie trousers when the invitation says so. Wear it with jeans and a white shirt when it doesn't. Or wear it with the Black Watch trousers and go full winter.
Black November
For November only, we're opening twelve places in the workroom for both pieces, made to your measurements.
Same cloth, same fittings, same finishing as every bespoke piece we make. Order online and we'll be in touch to book your fitting in Brighton or London.
Order by 15 November and it's ready for Christmas. When the places are gone, we close the book.
28 years of going dark
Gresham Blake has been dressing Brighton, London and a good few people further afield since 1999. Our design team is in Brighton, and your fitting can be in Brighton or at our London showroom.
Questions about cloth, colour or fit? Call us on 01273 609587. We'd love to talk tartan.