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Bespoke Shirts

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Bespoke Shirts

The Ultimate Guide to Shirt Styles: Collars, Pockets and Cuffs Explained

When it comes to men’s and women’s shirts, the devil is in the details. Whether you're dressing up for a formal occasion, looking sharp for a business meeting, or going for a more casual look, the style of your shirt’s collar and pockets can make all the difference. At Gresham Blake, we understand the importance of choosing the right design elements to elevate your wardrobe. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the different styles of collars and pockets available in our collection, so you can make an informed decision when selecting your next bespoke or ready-to-wear shirt.

Collar Styles: The Frame for Your Face

The collar is the first thing many people notice in a shirt, as it frames the face and sets the tone for the overall look. Here are the main types of shirt collars:
Classic Point Collar
The most common collar style, with a narrow spread between the collar points.
Best for: Formal and business shirts. The point collar creates a slimming effect and looks great with or without a tie.
Grandad Collar
A collarless design with a short band that wraps around the neck. 
Best for: A relaxed, minimalist look. The grandad collar is perfect for those who want to ditch the tie but still look stylish.
Cutaway Collar
This style features collar points that angle away from each other, creating a wider spread. 
Best for: More modern, fashionable looks. The cutaway collar is perfect for a larger tie knot like the Windsor.
Button-Down Collar
As the name suggests, this collar has small buttons at the tips to fasten the collar down. 
Best for: A casual, laid-back style. It’s often seen in casual business settings or weekend attire.
Club Collar
Featuring rounded collar points, the club collar exudes a vintage, Ivy League charm.
Best for: Vintage and preppy styles. It pairs well with slim ties or bow ties for a unique look.

Pocket Styles: Function and Fashion Combined

Pockets may seem like a small detail, but they can significantly affect the overall aesthetic of a shirt. Depending on your needs, they can serve as functional features or design accents.
Single Chest Pocket
The most common type of shirt pocket, located on the left chest.
Best for: Casual and business-casual shirts. This pocket adds functionality without overwhelming the design.
Pocket
Sleek & Minimalist - Shirts without pockets offer a clean, streamlined look.
Best for: Formal shirts, as the absence of pockets creates an uncluttered appearance that’s ideal for suits or dressier occasions.
Double Chest Pockets
Two symmetrical pockets, usually with button closures, placed on either side of the chest.
Best for: Utility and workwear-inspired shirts. Double pockets add a rugged, practical feel to your look.
Flap Pockets
Pockets with a button-down flap closure for a more secure and detailed look.
Best for: Casual and semi-formal shirts, especially in more rugged or structured fabrics like denim or heavier cotton.
Pencil Pocket
A smaller pocket within the main chest pocket, designed for carrying pens or other slim items.
Best for: Professionals who need to keep writing tools on hand while maintaining a polished appearance.
patterned shirts for men

Cuff Styles: Polished from Sleeve to Wrist

The cuff of a shirt plays a key role in defining the formality of a shirt and can complement other accessories like cufflinks or watches. 

Button Cuff (Barrel Cuff)

The most common cuff style, featuring either one or two buttons on a square or slightly rounded cuff.

Best for: Versatile for both formal and casual shirts, the button cuff is easy to wear and practical.

French Cuff (Double Cuff)

A more formal style where the cuff is folded back and fastened with cufflinks.

Best for: The French cuff is ideal for formal shirts and occasions where you want to add an extra touch of sophistication. It pairs well with cufflinks for a classic, elegant look.

Convertible Cuff

A hybrid cuff that can be fastened with either buttons or cufflinks, depending on the occasion.

Best for: Versatile and adaptable, the convertible cuff is perfect for those who want flexibility. You can dress it down with buttons for a casual look or elevate it with cufflinks for a formal event.

Square Cuff

A simple, straight-cut cuff that adds a modern and minimalist touch.

Best for: Casual shirts or those looking for a less traditional style. The square cuff is sleek and pairs well with minimalist designs.

Round Cuff

A cuff with rounded edges, giving a softer, more polished look.

Best for: A balance between formal and casual, the round cuff works well in both settings, providing a subtle elegance.

Customising Your Shirt at Gresham Blake

BOOK A BESPOKE TAILORING CONSULTATION

At Gresham Blake, we believe that every detail of your shirt should be tailored to your taste. Whether you’re looking for a sharp business shirt with a classic point collar and no pockets, or a casual weekend shirt with a grandad collar and double chest pockets, our bespoke service can bring your vision to life.
Here’s what you can expect when you create a custom shirt with us:
  • Fabric Selection: Choose from a wide variety of luxury fabrics, from crisp cottons to relaxed linens.
  • Design your own fabric:  For those looking for something truly unique, Gresham Blake offers a bespoke cloth design service. Our experienced designers will work closely with you to create a cloth that meets your exact specifications.
  • Collar, Pocket, and Cuff Customization: Mix and match collar styles, pocket designs, and cuff types to create a look that’s entirely your own.
  • Personal Fit: We’ll take your exact measurements to ensure a perfect fit, whether it’s slim, tailored, or relaxed.
Ready to upgrade your shirt game? Explore our collection or book an appointment for a bespoke consultation today!